Gas work is the part of plumbing where the margin for improvisation is zero, so
our approach here is deliberately unexciting: correct sizing for the actual
appliance load, proper materials for the run, a pressure test on completion, and
a permit with an inspection behind it.
We handle new appliance runs, extensions and relocations, leak investigation and
repair, capping lines for removed appliances, and seismic shut-off valve
installation.
One thing worth planning for: if you’re replacing gas appliances over the next
few years, the Bay Area’s zero-NOx phase-in changes what you’ll be allowed to
install as a replacement. It’s worth knowing which of your gas appliances are
affected and when, rather than finding out on the day one fails. We wrote up the
dates and what they actually mean in our guide to the Bay Area gas water heater
rules.
Permitted and pressure-tested as standard. Quoted after we've seen the run.
- I smell gas. What should I do right now?
- Leave the building first. Don't switch anything on or off, including lights. Once you're outside, call 911 and PG&E at 1-800-743-5000. Do not wait to call a plumber first — this is the one thing on our site that is not a scheduling question.
- Do I need a permit for gas line work?
- Effectively always, and you want one. Permitted, inspected gas work is what protects your home insurance position and your resale. We pull it as part of the job rather than leaving it to you.
- What is a seismic gas shut-off valve?
- A valve that automatically cuts the gas supply when it senses shaking above a set threshold. Given where we live, it's a reasonable piece of insurance, and some jurisdictions require one on certain work. It's a straightforward install on most services.
- Can you run a line for a new range or outdoor kitchen?
- Yes — new appliance runs, extensions and relocations, sized properly for the appliance load rather than just teed off the nearest available pipe.